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Overcast stitch

Wraps a raw edge to stop it from fraying.

#9 of 10 · Updated November 2026 · The Yarn Math

Overcast stitch, illustrated.

Overcasting wraps the thread around a raw edge so that the threads of the fabric cannot unravel. It is the hand-sewn version of a zigzag or overlocked edge.

StrengthLow to medium
Visible on the right sideYes (on the inside of the item)
Stitch lengthStitches about ¼ in (6 mm) apart and deep
LevelBeginner
Good forFinishing seam allowances by hand when you have no serger or zigzag.

How to sew overcast stitch

  1. Work on a single layer, or on both seam allowances together.
  2. Bring the needle through from back to front, about ⅛–¼ in (3–6 mm) from the raw edge.
  3. Take the thread over the edge to the back.
  4. Insert the needle again from the back, a little further along.
  5. Repeat with even spacing, keeping the thread loose enough not to curl the edge.

Tips

Questions

Do I need to overcast every seam?

Only on woven fabrics that fray and items that will be washed. Felt, fleece and knits usually do not need it.

Top 10 hand sewing stitches